Printable Shopping List - Bearded Dragon shopping list?

Bearded Dragon shopping list?

This is my revised shopping list for my adult male Beardie I'm getting this winter. I know the collection of bulbs I am getting may not provide enough heat... I already have the CHE and halogen (left over from my snake), so I will get fixtures and test them out. If it is too cold, I will get a 100w CHE. I am building him a wood viv with dimensions of 4x2x2' (120 gallon). Already Owned: -Food pellets (for gutloading, not for actual feeding) -Freeze-dried Crix (in case of emergency outage) -Ceramic Clamp Lamp (for CHE/halogen bulb) -60 watt CHE -50 watt halogen -Bowl for veggies -Bowl for water -AcuRite Thermometer w/ probe -Double outlet light timer (for halogen and ReptiSun) Need: -Rep-Cal Herptivite -Rep-Cal >Phosphorous free< Calcium with D3 -36" ReptiSun 10.0 -Light fixture for ReptiSun -Cricket Keeper -Worm Keeper -Another ceramic clamp lamp (for CHE/halogen) -Tile substrate -Building materials (I am building a wood viv) Am I missing anything? Oh, and I'll get branches and rocks and stuff from outside and wash/bake them right and everything. I will also make a hide box.

Public Comments

Necessities Vivarium UVA/UVB Lighting Day Heat Globe Substrate Water Bowl Thermostat Dragons can live for up to 25 years. *NOTE – Dragons are social animals and we recommend at least 2 together. Requirements You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence. Housing Enclosures should be at least 100cm long and 50cm wide with top ventilation. Dragons are arboreal and require enough height in the enclosure to place branches for climbing. Enclosures must be secure and escape proof. Substrate Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is available. Bleached beach sand and red pindan sand are preferred as a base with a range of coloured sand also available including Reptilite calcium sand that can be used on top. Keep sand moist but not wet, this will help prevent shedding problems and compaction from injesting the sand during feeding. Dragons love to dig too! This will also help prevent cave ins. Humidity and Water Provide a water bowl with clean water at all times. It should be large enough to bathe in (but shallow for very young dragons). Waterfalls can also be used. Spray your dragons cage furnishings daily in the mornings in the summertime, watch your dragons lick up the droplets, to help prevent dehydration and problems with shedding. Temperature and Lighting Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the dragons to heat up and cool off, as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 30-35°C. The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used. A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 8-10 hours during winters and 12-14 hours during summer each day to provide the UV light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure). Food Dragons eat mostly insects but also some vegetation such as dandelion flowers and some finely chopped fruit and veg ie grated apple, carrot, peas, berries. Adult beardies tend to enjoy their fruit and veg, whereas hatchling and juvenile dragons are mainly insectivorous. Commercial insects are available live such as crickets, woodies and mealworms (mealworms should not be used as a staple as the chitin (skin) is hard for the dragons to digest and may cause compaction) and so are canned insects (canned mealworms are ok). Dusting food with calcium/vitamin powder helps provide full nutritional value. Feed adults every 2 or 3 days and babies daily. Dragons are easily handfed. You may supplement from the garden, earwigs, any beetles, moths, dragonflys, huntsmen spiders, but be sure that no pesticides or chemicals have been used, if supplementing from garden, worming is essential every 3 months as many insects are hosts for parasites ie Moths. Before feeding your dragon, lift up cage furnishings and water bowl to reveal any hidden insects, you may not have to add more food. Always leave a piece of fresh carrot in the enclosure for the insects to nibble on, or they will nibble on your dragon or eat faeces left in the enclosure. Clean faeces daily to prevent potential diseases and contaminating food. Handling Dragons quickly get used to being handled and may sit on your shoulder or hand happily. However they are quick and can jump. Please don’t allow them to wander around a room even if you think it’s safe. They are small and quick and can easily get stuck, hurt, lost or even escape. Wash your hands before and after handling your dragon. Recommended Extras Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements. Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet. Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure. Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure. Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement. Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush. Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution. You should also add branches for climbing ideally arranged to reach the basking lamp. Accessories Feeding Bowl, Plastic Plants, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Cricket Feeder, Termite Mound, Water Well, Mealworm Bowl, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Waterfall, Basking Rock, Little Dripper, Roach Off, Jungle Vines and plastic plants for decoration. Clean any accessories on a regular basis with bleach and soapy water, leave to dry in the sun and place back in the enclosure, changing the position of accessories will also make it more interesting for your dragons. Make sure any heavy objects are icebergs in the sand so that your dragon does not become stuck by digging underneath it. Health Colloidal Silver – a preventa
dragons are not sociable as the above poster said, male/male will fight male/female will over mate and kill the female female/female too many hormones often fight. in the wild they live a solitary life only coming together to mate. neccessary stuff: good sized viv,remember these animals can grow upto 25 inches long repti sun uvb strip light starter unit for above light basking lamp dimming thermostat to control the above light making sure it gets no higher than 110-115f for a baby logs,branches and fun stuff crix locusts silkworms to feed the dragon calcium with no d3 like calypso for 5 days a week multivits with d3 like nutrobal for 2 days a week food bowl not everyone uses a water bowl as many dragons dont drink from standing water and it raises the humidity in the viv too much,some people give their dragons a bath once or twice a week in warm water upto their shoulders for 10-15 mins then they soak up water through their cloaca.
The only thing I would add is a thermostat. During my first year of keeping reptiles (long time ago) I almost cooked a snake and froze a lizard due to incorrect temperatures so now every vivarium I own has a thermostat
Since you're building such a big tank, I doubt the little 50-60w lights are going to work for you. I have a 40gallon breeder tank (smaller than yours) with a 150w basking spot lamp that fluctuates between 95-104F depending on the ambient air temp of my house. A 60w would do nothing. I wouldn't use the Ceramic Heat Emitter for the daytime and only use them for night time. Bearded Dragons like the tank bright so I would use the bigger-wattage regular basking lamps instead. Even with the 36in UVB light, the tank will not be that bright. Another thing, you do not need a water dish. It will raise the humidity in the tank and cause more problems than good things. Instead, just bathe your dragon 1-3 times a week and mist 1 time a week. Along with getting a timer, get a thermostat for your heaters/lights. There won't be any chance of them getting too hot especially since they need to be left on for 12 hours straight. You would need a thermostat that would allow 2 or more plug ins. When getting items outside, yes, you need to disinfect them. I would do more than just bake them. Bake them first for 15-20 minutes at 350F then let them sit out to cool. After that mix a solution with 3 parts water and 1 part bleach, soak the items, then rise thoroughly and let sit until completely dry. Doing these 2 things will really make sure they are clean and won't introduce bacteria and other things. Other than that, you sound like you've got everything under control. Oh, you might want to pick up another thermometer as well for the cooler side of the tank. This way you can make sure the temps on that side stay around 85-90. Good luck with your upcoming bearded dragon. They make great pets!